Manufacture of shoes



F1155 neef-29,; 1921 2 sheets-sheet 1 sept 11, 1928. 1,683,636

F. E. TOOTHAKER A MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed Dec. 29. 1921 2Sheets-Sheet 2 smoothed against it. Y lasted immediately, the Wet.adhesive has vno means to engage and hold the lining which is :theii'aps, as will be eX-Y Patented Sept. 1,1,` 1928. i

FRED E. TOOTHAKEE, oEsWAMPsGoT'r, MASSACHUSETTS, AssIGNoR roUNITEn srroEMACHINEE' CORPORATON, or rArEEsoN, NEW'JEESEY, A oEro'EArIoN or NEWJERSEY.

MANUEACTURE 0E sirens.

. `application,inea December 29, 1921. serial No. 5255911v Thisinvention relates to the manufacture of turned shoes, and has for anobject theiniprovenient of such manufacture, as hereinafter explained. yi In the manufacture of most shoes of this tyre, around the heel-seatwhen the 'sole and upper are secured together, butissmoothedv down intothe counter portion of the shoe after turning. `In this unattachedcondition it sometimes happens,vespecially if the lining be a littleshort, thatthe friction of ,thehorn used inrelasting is sufficient todisplace the ,smoothed lining, forming .Wrinkles This necessitates atroublesome and'time-consume ing operation in smoothing' out suchWrinkles and rearranging the lining. In vsome cases a shank piece is put`inthe shoev justafter turning, to cover the margin of the lining,l

and in some cases a'coating of adhesive is placed on the counter. beforethe lining is But as the shoe is retendency to hold the lining againstthe fric tion of the horn, nor is the friction of the shank piecesufficient for thispurpose'. .On the contrary it will be apparent thatthe ad-y hesive will set afterwards and hold the Wrinf' kies in place,andthat the shank piece,

whether placed in the shoe after turning or applied to the second lastbefore it is inserted, adds greatly to the difficulty of removing thewrinkles.V A

VIt is accordingly proposed to obviate these difficulties by securingthe unattached" lining in place after the Aturning of the shoe, in amanner positively to prevent displacement thereof during the relastingoperation,

ings illustrate the use of a shank piece extendng between the marginalportions of the upper and of the lining and provided withlii'iingengaging means, such Vas a metallic fastener, tov'fastenthelining and the shank piece together. For turned shoes of themolded counter type, be used, one flap being secured to the counter inylieu of a tuck-,and either flap vcarrying received between planed. Inanother aspect, the inventionxconsists 1n the lining of the shoe isiiot'fastened in and` 1 for this purpose the accompanying draw-y a splitshank may` ,dotted lines in Fig. l Whenfthe yshoe is A onA a second lastL by the use .of the usual ing is engaged taching plate ,having meansatene side t0 'se-4 cure ittothe vshank piece andyineansa-t the others1deof the plate for securing the shank piece to `a slice. In one formthe shank piece is especiall .adapted ytoengagethe lining of a turned sioe and hold it. against displace-` ment. I prefer to use a pronged`plate of soft metal which will offer little resistance to the passageof nails or tacks `during heeling and other subsequent operations, butit will be appreciated'that other fastening de vices may-be used.4 Suchshank" pieces,l `either alone or attached to moldedfcounters as aboveexplained, can readily be made With machinery already .Wellknown inshank factories, and distributed conveniently by such factories to theshoe. manufacturers. Y i

The above and otlierpliases oftheinvention Will be apparent ,fromthe-follbwingdescription o f the illustrative figures of theaccompanying drawings in which, f Fig. l is a view partly in sideelevation and partly in section showing a molded counter turned shoemade according to the present invention, With the second last andrelasting..

horn shown indotted lines;

Fig 2 is a perspective of one piece which may be used;

Fig. 3 is a detached perspective of a pronged metal plate sucha's isused in mak.

ing the shank piece.` shown in Fig.. 2;. Figs. 4 and 5 are bottom planviews of `alternative forms of shank pieces;.

. Fig.. 6 is a perspective showing a .split shank attached to anioldedgcounter .and car.- rying a lining-engaging pronged plate; and

a Fig. 7 isa view of aturned shoe embodying the `structure of Fig. 6Whileit is still onthe first last. Y 1

-A `shoe made in accordance ivith the. press ent invention comprises anupperl() and a.

sole 12 secured togetherin the usual manner, a lining 1 4 secured at oneedge tothe upper and served 1n With-the upper 1n the sole-at.-

taching seam about'the forepart of tlneffshoe` but not aboutrthe vliceiseat, a counter' 16. which may be a molded counter, 'and a shankA piece18 shown in section in Fig. yl and `.in perspective in12. As shownby thepulled horn H or an e uivalent implement, the 1in form of shank irictionally by the^` horn and there is a very considerable' tendencyforthe unattached end to be pulled out in a manner which will formwrinkles in the lining between the last and the counter.

Y To obviate this diiliculty, as previously explained, I provide' meansfor holding the unattached ,edge of the lining during the relastingoperation which may be in the form of a metallic fastener such as a'pronged metal plate 20 carried by the shank piece 18. As shown in Fig.3, prongs 22 are struck up from one face of this plate to engage thelining and prongs 24 may be struck up from the opposite face to vfastenthe plate to the shank piece.

kIn Figs. 4 and 5 are shown alternative forms ofshank piecessuch as maybe used vin carrying the present invention into effect.

In the form shown in Fig. at a pronged metal plate 120 is provided atthe heel end of the shank piece and 4plates 122 are provided at oppositesides to come approximately atthe heel breast line of the shoe andengage the unattached sides of the lining just rearwardly of the pointswhere the lining bcf gins kto be sewedinwith the upper. .Another prongedplate 124: may he provided to engage the sole at the forward end of theshank piece to hold the shank piece, itself against dis placementrelatively to the sole. It will be observed that the prongs of the otherplates such as shown at 120 and v122 will ordinarily be long enough sothat they also will engage the sole and co-operate in holding the shankpiecein place. Accordingly, as previously pointed out, the invention maybe regarded from-one point of view as directed to the provision of ashank piece carrying shoeengaging fasteners such as these pronged platesand which in the forms illustrated herein may have these fastenersarranged to engage and hold the lining asabove described. Y

In the form illustrated in Fig. 5 the shank piece is provided withametallic stiifening member 220 which is formed with prongs 222 toenga-ge the rear end of the lining and prongs 224 toengage it atsubstantially the forward ends of the counter. I prefer to use asoftimetal for making the form of plate shown in Fig. 2 so that theheeling nails may pass through it without any substantial resistance; inthe form shown in Fig. 5, however, this is not feasible as the plateextendsV to form an arch-supporting stitfening memberwhich must be ofrelatively hard metal and accordingly in this form (and also in the formshown in Fig. 4l) the plate is cut Y awayxaboutthe center of the heelseat so that it willnot interfere withv theheeling operation.. 1 i

As shown in Fig. 6y myinvention ma be applied to an assemblage made upof a mo ded counter 16 anda split shank piece 118, one flap-12() ofwhich is fastenedto the counter in-lieufof thef'pusual tuck.. A prongedplate :20-'or 'other suitable lining-securing agent may be fastened toone of the flaps to hold the unattached edge of the lining which isreceived between the two flaps -of the split shank. Fig. 7 illustratesthe use of the as semblage shown in Fig. 6 and shows a shoe on the first`last with the counter and shank piece in place. i

While I have illustrated and described spe ciiic structures which may beused to obtain the advantages of my invention, it is not my intention tolimit its scope thereby or otherwise ythan by the terms of the appendedclaims.

vHaving described my invention, what l claim as new and desire to secureby Letters Patent of the United States is 1. A turned shoe comprising,in combination, a sole, an upper, a lining, a molded counter between theupperand thelining, a shank piece ysplit at its rear end to form twoflaps and having the lower margin of the lining between the flaps, meansto fasten one flap to the counter to form a bottom piece or tucktherefor', and means to fasten one or both flaps to the lining to holdit against displacement. s

2. Aturned shoe comprising, in combination, a. sole and an upper, alining secured at itsl upper margin to the upper, and means to penetratethe lower margin ofthe lining and hold it against displacement and topresent a smooth upper surface to engage a foot in the shoe.

i 3. A turned shoe comprising, in combina tion, a sole,`an upper, alining, a shank piece extending between the marginal portions of theupper and of the lining, and means on the shank piece engaging themargin of the lining, to fasten the lining and the shank piece togethertok prevent displacen'ient of the lining.

4. A turned shoe comprising, in combina tion, a sole, an upper, alining, and a metallic fastening device extendingbetwccn the marginsofthe upper andof the lining to hold the lining against displacement.

A turned shoe comprising, in combinalim liu

tion., a sole, an upper, a lining, and a plate v having prongs to securethe lower margin of the lining against displacement.

G. A turned shoe comprising, in combination, a sole, an upper having `aninturned lower margin ysecured to the sole, a lining tion, a sole, anupper', a lining, a shank piece,

and a metal plate having prongs to engage` the shank piece and otherprongs to engage the lining. A,

8. A device to be incorporated in turned'k shoes comprising, incombination, a molded n counter, a shank piece split at its rear end toform two flaps, means to fasten one of the flaps to the counter to forma bottom piece or tuck therefor, and a fastening agent carried by one ofthe flaps to engage andhold the lfpargin of a shoe lining receivedbetween the Si). A device to be incorporated in turned shoes comprising,in combination, a molded counter, a shank piece split at its rear end toform two flaps, means to fasten `one of the flaps to the counter to forma bottom piece or tuck therefor, and prongs carried by one of the flapsto engage and hold the margin of a shoe lining received between theflaps.

10. A shank piece comprising-a piece of fibrous stock split at its rearend to provide two flaps, and a fastening agent secured to the innersurface of one of the flaps to eni gage and hold a shoe part receivedbetween the fiaps.

11. A shank piece comprising a piece of fibrous stock split at its rearend to provide two fiaps, and a metallic fastener secured to the inner'surface of one of the flaps to ven gage and hold a shoek part receivedbetween the flaps. y

12. A shank piece comprising a piece of fibrous stock split at its rearend to provide two flaps, and a pronged metal plate secured to the innersurface of one of the flaps to engage and hold a shoe part receivedbetween the flaps.

13. A shank piece comprising, in combination, a piece of stock having asmooth surface to support a foot in a shoe in which the shank piece isembodied, a platehaving means at one side to secure it to the shankpiece, and

means at the opposite side of the plate for holding the lining of a shoein place.

14. A shank piece comprising,in co1nbination, a pieceof stock having asmooth surface to support a foot in a shoe in which the shank piece isembodied, a plate having means at one side to secure it to said piece ofstock, and means located at the opposite side of the plate and renderedoperative by placing the shank piece in the shoe to hold the lower maragin of the lining ofthe shoe against displacement.

15. A shank piece for turned shoes comprising, in combination, a pieceof Vfibrous o stock, a fastening plate having means at one side forsecuring the plate to the fibrous stock,

the shank piece is incorporated.

and means at the other side of the plate for securing the stock to apart of a shoe in which 16. A shank piece for turned shoes comprising,in combination, a piece ofgfibrous Y stock, and a metallic fasteningdevice secured to the lower face of the stock and rendered koperative tosecure the shank piece to a por* tion of a partly finished shoe byassembling the shank piece in the shoe.

17. A shank piece for turned shoes coinprising, in combination, a pieceof fibrous stock, and a member having prongs projecting in one directionto secure said member to Vthe shank piece and other prongs projecting iin another direction for attaching the shan piece to a portion of ashoe.

18. A shankpiece comprising a piece of` fibrous stock having a fasteningagent at its heel end arranged .to engage the inturned lower margin of ashoe lining and hold it aga-inst displacement. l

19. A shank piece for turned shoes comprising a piece of fibrous stockhaving at its heel end a metallicplate attached to the lower face of thestockand provided with out-` wardly-projecting prongs for attaching theg shank piece toa portion of a shoe.

20. A shank piece for turned shoes comprising apiece of fibrous stockand a metal stiifener secured to the lower surface thereof, saidstilfener having downwardly projecting marginal prongs to engage aportion of the upper.

2l. prising, in combination, a piece of fibrous stock having a smoothupper surface to engage a foot in a shoe made therewith, and a A shankpiece for turned shoes com- Y metal platesecuredto thelower surfacethere Y of having attaching prongs projecting away from said stock andpositioned'to engage the inturned lower margin of the lining of theshoe.

22. For usein making a shank piece for turned shoes, a metal platehaving prongs projecting from its edge and offset toward one side of theplate to attachthe plate to a piece of fibrous stock to make a shankpiece,

and other prongs offsetfrom the body of the v plate in the oppositedirection to attach the shank piece to a part of a shoe..

In testimony Vwhereof I have signed my nameto this specification.

FRED E. TOOTHAKER.

